How to Mix Kite and Bar from Different Brands

Wondering how to mix a kite and bar from different brands without ruining your session? This guide walks you through pigtail compatibility, universal pigtails, and the right knot techniques to safely connect mismatched gear. Whether you're riding Core, Naish, Duotone, Ozone, or North, you'll learn how to identify loop vs knot setups, swap pigtails step-by-step, and protect your line strength with proper figure-eight knots. 

We cover how to tie replacement knots, match line lengths for proper bar tuning, and when to adjust your bar vs the kite. If you’re dealing with a gear lockout, adapting old lines, or teaching others how to connect multi-brand setups, this is the pigtail compatibility guide you’ve been looking for.

Perfect for intermediate riders, instructors, or anyone wondering, “Can I use my bar on this other kite?” The answer is yes, if you do it right.

How do pigtails on kite bridles and bars differ by brand?

When you’re using the same brand kite and bar, you probably won’t think twice about pigtail setup. But the moment you try to mix brands, you’re going to run into a little knot-loop confusion. Here’s why:

Brands like North and Core usually set up their wing tips with knots and bridles with loops. That way, your steering lines (which have loops) connect cleanly to those knots using a simple lark’s head.

But switch to something like Ozone, Naish, Duotone, or Eleveight, and the setup might be reversed—knots on the bridles and loops on the wing tips, or some other mix. Same thing goes for their bars.

This creates what we call a lockout stage: your bar can’t connect cleanly to your kite because the pigtails are incompatible. It’s annoying—but fixable. That’s exactly what this guide is about.

What are universal pigtails and how do they solve compatibility issues?

Universal pigtails are the fix when you’re stuck with mismatched knots and loops. Instead of trying to Jerry-rig your setup with whatever’s on hand, these pigtails are built to solve brand incompatibility at the source.

They give you:

• Standardized ends – One knot, one loop, so you can connect in either direction.
  

• Adjustable lengths – That means you can match your bar tune without worrying about throwing your steering lines out of sync.
  

• Consistency – No guessing what’s going to fit. They just work.
  

Aaron makes it clear: if you grab a set of universal pigtails from Elite’s gear shop, you bypass all the weird brand quirks. No more lockout. Just clean connections, safer sessions, and less time fiddling with lines on the beach.

If you’re mixing a Naish kite with a Duotone bar or trying to run an old Core bar on a newer kite, these things save the day. They’re small, cheap, and absolutely worth having in your bag.

How to remove and swap a pigtail safely

Swapping a pigtail isn’t hard—but you’ve got to do it clean, especially if the lines are old or crusty.

Here’s Aaron’s process straight from the beach:

“You just peel these off. Sometimes they're a little bit harder than others, especially on older bars. This is a newer bar.”

Step-by-step:

1. Identify the pigtail you need to change – For example, maybe you’ve got a loop on the steering line but need a knot to match a Naish kite.
   

2. Grip the pigtail and pass the line back through the loop or knot – Pull it clean, no jerking. If it’s crusty or wet, use your thumbs to guide it.
   

3. Remove the old pigtail – Fully disconnect it so you’re working with a clean line.
   

4. Install the new one – Pass the line through the loop of the new pigtail, then pass the pigtail through the line. It’ll cinch down with tension.
   

5. Check the direction – Make sure the knot or loop ends up on the correct side to match your kite or bar.
   

Boom. Swapped. Now you’re ready to either fly or tie a new knot if needed (next section).

Aaron even calls this the most important part when adapting gear—get the connection point right, don’t damage your line, and don’t rush it.

How to tie a figure-eight knot as a compatible replacement

If your pigtail setup still doesn’t match after a swap—or your bar just doesn’t have a pigtail at all—you can tie your own. But not just any knot. You want a figure-eight knot, and here’s why:

“Any figure eight knot is better than an overhand knot. What I see most often is guys tying something that looks like this… and you’re fatiguing the line—maybe 50%. A figure eight? You’re only weakening it by about 20%.”

Here’s how to tie it right:

1. Fold the end of the line back on itself to form a small loop.
   

2. Wrap the tail under and around the standing line.
   

3. Thread the tail through the loop you just created.
   

4. Pull it tight until it looks like a clean figure eight. Leave a small tail at the end—at least a couple inches.
   

This keeps the line strong, resists slippage, and gives you a reliable knot-to-loop connection point that won’t fail under load.

Aaron does this all the time when adapting older bars or working with one-off setups in the lesson center. It’s simple, strong, and proven. Don’t just wing it—tie it right.

What if your bar lacks pigtails—can you use an overhand knot?

Let’s say you’re holding an old bar—no pigtails, no easy swaps. Can you just tie a knot and ride?

Yes—but only if you do it smart.

“As long as I’m not taking up too much space or shortening the lines too much, I can just do an overhand knot. Especially on thicker line. And as long as I leave a nice little tail, it’ll get me out and on the water.”

Here’s when it works:

• Temporary fix – You’re rigging for a session, not a long-term solution.
  

• Thicker line – End sections of most bars are a bit beefier, making knots less likely to slip.
  

• You leave a proper tail – That’s the key. The knot itself might slip under load if it’s not backed up with a clean tail to catch it.
  

But don’t get it twisted—this isn’t ideal. Overhand knots can fatigue the line significantly more than figure-eights. That’s why universal pigtails or a proper figure-eight are always better.

Still, Aaron says it straight:

“We do this in the lesson center constantly. We’ve never had issues—especially if it’s just a one-off for the day.”

It’s not about being reckless. It’s about getting you out on the water, safely, with the tools you’ve got.

How do I make sure lengths match so bar tuning remains correct?

Mixing pigtails is one thing—but messing up your line lengths? That’ll ruin your session fast.

Aaron’s golden rule here is simple:

“Don’t make your front lines any shorter or longer than your steering lines, or your bar’s going to be out of tune.”

That’s where bar tuning comes in. Your kite assumes the front and back lines are balanced. Change that, and suddenly:

• The kite backstalls.
  

• It won’t sheet in or depower properly.
  

• It pulls unevenly or sits crooked in the sky.
  

If you’re swapping out pigtails—especially between brands with different stock lengths—make sure the new pigtail matches the original length exactly.

Or, better yet, use adjustable universal pigtails so you can fine-tune it and keep everything dialed. That’s why Elite recommends these in the shop—they keep your rig balanced without guesswork.

If you’re ever unsure, lay the lines out flat and check side-by-side. Or better: bring it in and let the lesson center get you tuned up.

Rygo's take: This is a big one. A lot of riders don’t understand why their kite is backstalling or flying poorly. You can adjust with the trim of the kite but the length of your lines are also impactful. I once had a kite that always flew horrible until I added about 3 meters to the steering lines. This was an old stretched out bar but the fix worked. 

When should you swap bridles vs just changing bar pigtails?

Here’s where most people overcomplicate things. If your bar and kite don’t match, don’t start tearing into the kite.

Aaron lays it down clear:

“My golden rule in the lesson center and in the shop is that we generally don’t touch the kite. We only adjust the bar.”

Why? Because the kite’s bridle system is:

• Tuned from the factory.
  

• Designed to distribute load across multiple points.
  

• Easy to mess up if you start modifying lengths or connections.
  

Instead, swap out your bar’s pigtails first. That’s your play.

There are only two situations where touching the kite’s bridles makes sense:

1. You’ve got no other option and you understand exactly what you’re changing.
   

2. You’re making a long-term mod and plan to re-tune everything with experience or professional help.
   

Otherwise? Leave the kite alone. Adapt the bar. Get on the water. Save the surgery for another day.

Safety considerations mixing gear across brands

Mixing kite and bar brands isn’t unsafe—but only if you know what you’re doing.

Aaron doesn’t sugarcoat it:

“You can make it work, and we do it in the lesson center all the time. But you’ve got to check your knots. You’ve got to check your lines. Every time.”

Here’s what matters:

• Line fatigue – Overhand knots, improper loops, and crusty old pigtails can cut your line strength in half.
  

• Slipping knots – A loose overhand with no tail is a session-ending mistake.
  

• Mismatched lengths – Uneven front and back lines will throw your kite off-tune, and in gusty conditions, that can lead to a crash.
  

• Incorrect lark's head connections – If you’ve got loop-to-loop or knot-to-knot, you’re doing it wrong. Lark's head only works loop-to-knot.
  

Your checklist before every ride:

• Inspect pigtails and knots for fraying or tension damage.
  

• Make sure every knot has a tail.
  

• Match line lengths exactly.
  

• Check bar tune on land—don’t wing it mid-session.
  

And if you’re new to knots or adapting gear, book a lesson. Don’t learn this stuff when you’re already 200 yards offshore. The team at Elite can walk you through safe pigtail swaps in 15 minutes flat.

Not 100% Confident in Your Setup?

If you’re unsure about your setup—or just want to make sure your gear’s dialed in before your next session—book a private or group kite lesson with us at Elite Watersports.
We’ll walk you through pigtail swaps, knot choices, and bar tuning on real gear, on the beach, so you’re confident when it matters

Book your kite lesson here

Need universal pigtails?
Get them shipped fast—standardized, adjustable, and compatible with all major brands.
 Shop Universal Pigtails

New to all of this?
If this is your first time hearing the word “lark’s head,” start with our beginner info page for a full breakdown of kiteboarding safety and gear fundamentals.
Kiteboarding Basics & Safety

FAQ

Are universal pigtails safe for all kite brands?
Yes when installed correctly. Universal pigtails are designed with standardized knot and loop ends to match any brand. Just make sure your line lengths stay even and always do a full pre-flight check before riding.

Can I just use an overhand knot instead of buying universal pigtails?
You can, but it’s a temporary fix. Overhand knots weaken the line more than figure-eight knots and can slip if not backed with a proper tail. If you’re in a pinch, it’ll work, but don’t rely on it long-term. Get a proper pigtail set when you can.

How often should I inspect my swapped lines and knots?
Every session. Look for fraying, stretched loops, or knots that look glazed or compacted. Recheck your bar tuning regularly—especially after switching gear or adjusting anything. Safety comes from consistency.

Ryan "Rygo" Goloversic