How Do I Get Water Out of My Kite Bladder?

If your kite feels heavy, soggy, or just isn’t flying right, you might have water trapped in the bladder. In this guide, we break down exactly how to get water out of your kite bladder with step-by-step instructions from Elite Watersports. 

You’ll learn what causes water intrusion (like valve submersion and crash impact), how to safely isolate and drain struts, and the best way to flush out saltwater using rinse‑and‑air cycles. 

We also explain when to DIY and when it’s smarter to get professional help plus how to prevent water from getting in next time. Whether you're troubleshooting after a crash or looking for a kite bladder drainage tutorial, this is your complete fix. If you just want to skip the work, we can help. Book a repair now. 

What causes water to get into a kite bladder?

Water in your kite bladder usually means something went wrong during a session, most often a crash. Aaron breaks it down:

“You’ve crashed a hard kite. So hard that one of the tubes popped off, or whatever the case may be, somehow water got in.”

Here are the most common ways it happens:

• Tomahawks and hard crashes – When your kite slams the water repeatedly, even top-tier construction can’t always keep the strut valves sealed. Over time, fittings can pop loose, letting water in through the tubes.
  

• Aging materials – Older kites with worn valves or UV-weakened seams are more likely to leak during impacts.
  

• Valve submersion – If the wind dies and you’re stuck out in the water, deflating your kite to swim or get picked up by a boat can let the deflate valve sink underwater.
  
  “There are kites out there designed to release pressure if you slam it hard enough.  That valve can also suck in water if submerged.”
  

Aaron’s key advice:

“If that happens, get to your kite right away to avoid too much water intrusion.”

But if water does get in? No panic. It’s fixable, and you’re about to learn how.

How can I tell if my kite has water inside?

So how do you know if your kite bladder actually has water in it?

Aaron gives you the telltale signs:

“You’ll notice it feels a little bit heavier. You can feel it in the wing tips. If the kite is deflated, you’ll feel it in the canvas.”

Here’s what to look for:

• Extra weight – Your kite feels noticeably heavier than usual when you carry or pump it up.
  

• Tip drag – The wing tips feel soggy or sluggish, especially during relaunch.
  

• Beanbag feel – When you press on the struts or leading edge, it squishes like a water balloon instead of staying taut.
  

• Uneven inflation – After pumping up, one section might feel sloshy while the rest is firm.
  

If your kite doesn’t fly right, feels off-balance, or just seems waterlogged, it probably is. And riding with water inside risks long-term bladder damage.

Aaron puts it simply:

“Don’t worry. Everyone brings their kites in with water eventually. Let’s drain it and do it right.”

What’s the safest way to isolate and drain struts?

Once you know there’s water inside, start with the struts. But do it right, don’t let water backflow into other parts of the kite.

Here’s how Aaron handles it:

“First thing—we isolate all the struts from the leading edge. I’ll go to the struts first and make sure I’m keeping the tips higher than the bottom.”

Follow this step-by-step:

1. Elevate the kite tip – Use gravity. Keep the strut’s wingtip raised so water doesn’t flow into it from the leading edge.
   

2. Feel for water – Massage the strut gently.
   
    “If there’s water, it’ll feel like a beanbag—kind of like a balloon.”
   

3. If it’s dry, clamp it – Use the pinch valves or isolation clips to close off the strut from the leading edge. That locks in the air and keeps water from sneaking in.
   

4. If it’s wet, drain it –
   

• Option A: Let gravity pull it through the connecting tube and back into the leading edge (if you’re draining that anyway).
  

• Option B: Remove the connecting tube clamp, pull the hose, and drain directly from the strut itself.
  

Repeat this for each strut.

“Get in the little pockets. Squeeze around. If there’s water, drain it. Then close that strut off.”

This isolation step is what stops a small water issue from becoming a full-kite mess.

How do you drain the leading edge bladder properly?

Once the struts are dry and closed off, it’s time to handle the big one—the leading edge. That’s where most of the water settles.

Aaron lays it out:

“All that air and water goes in through one spot. We can drain water pretty easily out of that.”

Here’s how to do it right:

1. Close all strut valves – This keeps water from migrating back into the struts during the drain.
   

2. Raise one wingtip – Gravity is your friend. Start by lifting one tip and slowly let the water move toward the center of the kite.
   

3. Hold the center of the kite higher than the tip –
   
    “We’re going to make sure that we keep that center point of the kite now higher than the wing tip we already drained.”
   

4. Repeat on the other side – Tip up, center elevated, guide the water inward.
   

5. Flip the kite if needed – Once the water has pooled near the main fill valve, flip the kite leading edge up and drain from that central point.
   

6. Expect volume –
   
    “Usually end up with a good gallon or so inside. Flip it inside out and drain through the main valve.”
   

You don’t need to remove the bladder unless the water’s really trapped or you’re doing a full rinse (which is next). This basic drain gets 90% of the water out fast—and avoids further damage.

Why rinse salt water with fresh water?

Draining isn’t enough. If saltwater made it into your kite, you have to rinse it, otherwise, you're setting yourself up for long-term damage.

Aaron sees it all the time in the repair shop:

“Salt crystals form. They get bigger. And they actually become pretty sharp. They can put pinholes in your actual bladder.”

Why this matters:

• Salt doesn’t just dry up – It leaves behind crystals that embed in the bladder wall.
  

• Crystals = damage – Over time, they puncture the bladder from the inside out.
  

• Pinholes are hard to find – Which means expensive repairs or full bladder replacements.
  

The solution?

“After we’ve drained as much saltwater as possible, we’ll actually put fresh water in it.”

Aaron recommends using a clean freshwater hose or a lithium-powered hand sprayer (like the one they use at Elite).
Spray water inside the leading edge, swish it around, and drain it fully.

This flushes out residual salt and protects your kite from internal corrosion.
If you skip this step, you're gambling with your gear.

How many rinse‑air cycles are needed to fully remove salt?

Rinsing once isn’t enough. You’ve got to repeat the process to make sure all the salt is gone.

Aaron’s method is simple and effective:

“You’ll fill the kite up with fresh water, drain it, fill it with air, drain it. Do that several times.”

Here’s the full cycle:

1. Fill with fresh water – Spray or pour clean water into the leading edge bladder.
   

2. Inflate the kite – This pushes the water across the bladder’s full surface area.
   

3. Drain it fully – Let gravity do its job—raise the kite tips, drain from the center valve.
   

4. Repeat – Two or three cycles is usually enough unless the kite was fully submerged.
   

You don’t need to remove the bladder for this process. Keep it simple and consistent.

“Eventually all that moisture will dry itself out, and you’ll be back to square one.”

Skip this rinse-air cycling and you risk trapped salt crystals that corrode your bladder from the inside. Do it right, and your kite lasts.

Can I do this repair at home, or should I book lessons?

Yes—you can handle basic draining and rinsing at home. But should you?

Aaron’s honest about it:

“Hopefully this gave you insight into what we do when we get kites in with water. Just take your time… but if you’re not confident, call us.”

Here’s the real breakdown:

DIY is fine if:

• You understand your kite’s valve system.
  

• You’re comfortable handling internal bladders.
  

• You’ve done basic maintenance before.
  

But booking a lesson or shop service makes more sense when:

• You’re unsure how water got in to begin with (likely repeat issue).
  

• You’ve got a high-end kite you don’t want to damage further.
  

• You want to prevent this from happening again through better technique.
  

Elite’s instructors show you:

• How to crash smarter and avoid valve submersion.
  

• What to check during self-launch or landings.
  

• How to rig, inflate, and drain without introducing risk.
  

“If you’d rather leave this to the pros—or want to avoid future water damage—book a kite lesson with us in St. Petersburg, FL or anywhere in the Tampa Bay area today.”

How to prevent water intrusion in the future?

Getting water out is one thing—not letting it in is where you save yourself time, money, and frustration.

Aaron’s prevention tips come straight from real sessions and real repairs:

Rygo's take: Aaron has been repairing and working on kites for years. He’s even shown me some useful tips that I had no idea about after a decade of riding. If you’re having trouble, definitely give him a call. He’s extremely knowledgeable. 

 

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1. Don’t deflate your kite in the water

“If you’re stuck and the wind dies, try not to deflate unless you have to. Once that valve’s underwater, it’s game over.”
Only deflate when you’re back on land or on a boat that can keep the valve dry.

 

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2. Avoid hard tomahawks and repeated slams
Repeated crashes stress valve connections and tubing. Learn how to crash smarter:

• Keep the bar in when falling to depower.
  

• Don’t hot-relaunch in shallow water.
  
  

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3. Seal and clamp properly every time
Double-check your valve seals, strut clamps, and any quick-connect tubes before launching.

 

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4. Inflate with the kite leading edge downwind
This gives you more control during setup and prevents premature flapping and line snags that can pull valves loose.

 

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5. Pack dry, store dry
Never roll up a kite wet—especially if there’s any chance water’s inside the bladder.
Moisture + heat = bacteria, breakdown, and internal rot.

 

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6. Book a lesson to get real-time coaching
Most water intrusion cases come down to avoidable mistakes during setup, riding, or crash recovery.

Learn crash-preventing techniques in a one-on-one or group kite lesson and get ahead of the problem.

If your kite bladder’s already taken on water—or you want to avoid ever dealing with this again—book a kiteboarding lesson with Elite Watersports.

You’ll learn:

• How to crash without damaging your gear
  

• How to self-check for water intrusion
  

• How to properly rig, deflate, and store your kite
  

We’ll walk you through it all, step-by-step, with hands-on guidance in St. Petersburg, FL and across the Tampa Bay area.

 Book your kite lesson or Book a repair 

 

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FAQ

Can I use a hose instead of a hand-squirter to rinse?
Yes. A clean, low-pressure freshwater hose works fine. Just avoid high-pressure settings that could dislodge bladder valves or create new stress points.

 

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Is saltwater corrosion reversible after just one rinse?
Not entirely. One rinse helps, but microscopic salt crystals may still remain. You need multiple rinse-and-air cycles to fully remove salt and protect the bladder.

 

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Will moisture eventually just evaporate on its own?
Maybe but it’s risky. Trapped saltwater tends to leave deposits that crystalize. Active drainage and rinse cycles are safer and prevent long-term damage.

 

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