How to Fix Crossed Kite Lines in Strong Wind

Your kite crashes. You relaunch, but something feels off. The bar’s twisted, the lines are crossed, maybe even wrapped through themselves, and now the wind’s cranking. You’ve got two options: self-rescue, or fix it right there on the water.

This guide is for riders who want to fix crossed kite lines without panicking, without ejecting, and without cutting their session short. We’ll show you how to:

• Understand when a kite can still fly with inverted lines
  

• Use front-line tension to safely pass the bar and untangle
  

• Relaunch without creating a second mess
  

• Know when to self-rescue and when to keep going
  

• Practice this in low wind so you’re ready when it’s not
  

If you’ve ever searched “how do I fix twisted kite lines,” “kite line tangle fix,” or “bar juggling in high wind,” you’re in the right place.

This isn’t theory. These are step-by-step moves from real sessions—lines tangled, wind strong, kite in the water.  Heads up but this is a more advanced technique. Aaron is a pro here but we advise average riders to default to the self rescue first. We also advise you to learn how to juggle a bar in light wind first. Repetition is everything so learn it in forgiving conditions first 

How do you fix crossed kite lines?

So your kite crashed, and now the lines are twisted. This happens. In strong wind, it gets real fast—but that doesn’t mean your session’s over. Most riders panic, eject, and do a full self-rescue. They’re half a mile offshore wrapping their bar, swimming it in, wasting the whole ride.

But here’s the truth: you can fix crossed lines while you’re still out there, without triggering your safety. The key is bar juggling—a method that lets you safely reset your bar by managing front-line tension, keeping the kite flying, and repositioning everything mid-session.

I’m going to show you exactly how I do it. Real kite. Real wind. Lines tangled. We’re not hiding behind perfect conditions. Let’s build your confidence with this, because once you know how to juggle your bar, you’ve got way more control over your session—even when things go sideways.

Want more skill-building like this? Check out our tips & tricks blog for practical techniques to level up your riding.

Can I fly my kite with inverted or tangled lines?

Yes. You can. But that doesn’t mean you should keep riding.

When your lines are crossed or inverted, the kite might still fly. In fact, it often does. I’ve done full downwinders with inverted lines just to show students how stable a kite can be when the tangle is minor. But don’t mistake that for a green light to ignore the problem.

What’s happening is simple: as long as your front lines maintain equal tension and your steering lines aren’t pulling unevenly, the kite will stay aloft. You’ll feel more friction. The bar might feel weird. But the kite moves. That doesn’t mean your system is healthy.

Here’s the risk. Every minute you ride with tangled lines increases wear on your gear, especially at the bar’s center hole and swivel. Friction builds. The chance of further tangles increases. And the longer you stay out, the more likely that a gust or small mistake turns that minor issue into a full failure.

If you’re confident with bar juggling, you can fix it on the water. If not, ride back. No shame in walking it in and resetting on the beach. A half-mile ride in with inverted lines is safer than trying to “figure it out” in the middle of the chop with one steering line snagged.

The key is knowing when to make that call.

If your kite is flying fine and you’re close to shore, hold that course. But if you’re out past the sandbar, solo, and your bar’s acting twitchy, don’t wait for things to go south. Ride in. Reset. Relaunch clean.

This is about judgment. It’s not about being aggressive or showing off. It’s about preserving your gear, protecting your session, and keeping yourself in control.

How do I untangle crossed kite lines while still flying the kite?

This is where everything slows down. Your kite’s still flying. Lines are crossed. You’re not ejecting. You’re going to fix it.

First, unhook the chicken loop. You're going to be working directly with the lines and the bar, and you need freedom to move. Keep your leash stashed and your chicken stick off the bar.

Now reach for the front lines—right where the depower strap sits. That becomes your handle. Grab high, stay steady. You’re not pulling with force. You’re managing tension.

Let the steering lines go slack. That’s key. You want all the tension to live on the front lines. When your bar is inverted, twisted, or wrapped, the steering lines are often the source of chaos. By releasing them, you gain control.

Now look. Follow the lines visually. Where do they cross? Which way is the bar wrapped through? This is not guesswork. You need to see the pattern. Do not rush.

Once you’ve mapped the tangle, gently pass the bar back through the lines. You're threading it, not yanking it. Sometimes it takes one pass. Sometimes two. Use your fingers to guide the twist. Keep your grip on the main front lines the whole time.

Then grab the chicken loop again. Reconnect it. Reinsert the chicken stick. Clip the leash. But pause before you relaunch.

Check everything.

Are the lines sitting flat from bar to kite? No kinks, no wraps? Only then should you slowly sheet in. If something still looks off—pause. You’re not racing anyone. You’re rebuilding trust in your system before you throw power back into it.

This entire process—this fix on the water—is something you build up to. Start in 12 knots. Practice with a buddy nearby. Don’t let your first attempt be mid-session in 25 knots with whitecaps on your tail. That’s not skill. That’s risk.

Master the sequence. Train your hands to feel it. This is line control, not just line repair.

How do I practice untangling kite lines safely?

You don’t wait until it’s nuking to learn this. That’s the fastest way to lose your kite or your nerve. If you want to get good at fixing crossed lines on the water, you start in light wind. Always.

Twelve knots. Big kite. Flat water if you can. This is your training ground.

Set yourself up, crash the kite on purpose, invert the lines, and walk through the process. Hook and unhook the chicken loop. Clip and unclip the leash. Pass the bar through once, then again. Grab the front lines and feel the weight shift when the steering lines go slack. This is all muscle memory. You can’t think your way through it mid-session unless your hands already know the moves.

Every kite reacts a little different. XR series, for example, with their Delta-rounded shape, might collapse easier on the edge. That’s part of the lesson. You’ll see how some kites hold at the window better than others. Learn how your gear responds when you’re not stressed.

Do it a dozen times. Then twenty. Then try it on slightly stronger days.

The skill you’re building isn’t just line control—it’s session control. It’s knowing that when the wind picks up and things go sideways, you’re not guessing. You’ve already been there. You’ve already fixed it.

Practice until it’s boring. That’s how you make it automatic.

Why does the leading edge collapse when I uninvert lines?

You’re holding the kite steady. You’ve got your grip on the front lines. You pass the bar through, just like you practiced. And then—bam—the leading edge drops. The kite folds or flops, right in the water. Why?

It’s not always your fault.

A lot of it comes down to kite shape. High-aspect kites, or those with a Delta-rounded design like the XR series, tend to behave differently when they're resting at the edge of the window. They don’t always want to sit still. If the wind shifts or you let up tension the wrong way, they’ll roll or collapse.

Here’s what’s really happening: when you uninvert lines, you're temporarily changing how the load is distributed. If you don’t hold consistent tension on the front lines, or if the steering lines pull at the wrong time, the kite loses its balance. The leading edge drops because it has nothing stabilizing it.

But this isn’t the end of the session.

In fact, for many years, this was how kites “flagged out” on purpose. No single-line safety systems. Just front-line load and a flopped kite in the water. If you understand that, you realize collapse isn’t failure. It’s just a moment. A pause. You wait. You breathe. You don’t panic.

Keep tension on those front lines. Let the steering lines stay loose. That’s your safety frame.

Once the kite drifts back to the edge and stabilizes, you can reset. Rerun your check. Look at the bar. Look at the lines. If everything’s clean, re-hook the loop, clip your leash, and power up.

Leading edge collapse is part of the game. Understanding why it happens keeps you calm and gives you control.

How do I safely relaunch after fixing inverted lines?

Once your bar is untangled and your lines are clean, you’re not done. You’re at zero. The relaunch is its own operation, and if you rush it, you risk blowing the whole reset.

Start by grabbing the chicken loop. Hold it. Don’t hook in yet. Look at the kite. Are the lines flat? No tension spots? Nothing caught or wrapped around a wingtip? Good. Now hook into your spreader bar. That’s step one.

Step two: chicken stick on. Make sure it’s locked.

Step three: leash clipped. Front line leash. Always. If the kite surges or you lose tension, you need that safety system ready.

Now pause. Do a full system check. This is where the experienced rider slows it down. Don’t just yank the bar and hope. You need to feel that moment where the front lines engage and the kite starts to edge into power. That moment will tell you everything.

Still holding tension on the front lines only? Perfect. That’s your control. If you sheet in too early or load the steering lines before the kite is stable, it can spin or power up unpredictably. Especially with higher-aspect kites or Core sensor bars, which are more reactive.

Let the kite sit. Let the wind shape it. Then slowly sheet in and steer it to the edge of the window. Not the middle. Not straight up. You’re looking for a clean relaunch, not a spectacle.

When should I self-rescue instead of bar juggling?

Most of the time when someone inverts their lines, they go ahead and do a self-rescue. They eject, wrap up their bar, grab their kite, and walk it in. And they’re a half-mile out.

There’s nothing wrong with that.

If you’re not confident in bar juggling, or if the wind, the atmosphere, or the conditions don’t feel right—just get back to the beach. Untangle there.

You can even ride back with your lines inverted. I’ve shown that the kite still flies. Yes, there’s going to be more friction on the lines. It’s not good for them long term. But you can ride it in.

Sometimes that’s the best move.

But if you’re confident—and the conditions are good—you can try bar juggling closer to shore. Still, don’t do it alone. Flag down a rider. Say: “Hey, my lines are inverted. If I lose the kite, can you be ready to help?”

If you’re not sure, ride in.

That’s the rule. Don’t guess out there.

Self-rescue is not failure. It’s smart when the conditions call for it.

FAQ

Will tangled kite lines damage my gear?
Yes. When your lines are crossed, you’ll feel more friction through the bar. That’s not just annoying—it wears down the lines and stresses the swivel. It’s not good for the system long term. If the kite still flies, you can ride it in. But don’t stay out for long. Fix it as soon as you can.

Can I fix inverted lines by just pulling the bar?
No. Pulling the bar loads the steering lines—that’s the opposite of what you want. To fix crossed lines, you need slack in your steering lines and control through the front lines. It’s about releasing tension, not cranking more into it.

What’s the fastest way to get uncrossed lines in high wind?
Grab the depower lines above the bar, that’s your handle. Unhook your chicken loop. Let the kite sit. Watch which way the bar is passed through. Then pass the bar back, using those front lines to keep tension. Once it’s clean, grab the chicken loop, rehook, chicken stick, leash. That’s the reset. Do it slow first. Then build speed once it’s second nature.

Ryan "Rygo" Goloversic