What is Riding Blind in Kiteboarding?

Want to learn how to ride blind in kiteboarding? This deep-dive guide from Elite Watersports breaks down exactly how to master the blind position—from your first 180° surface pop to full blind transitions with one-handed kite control. Whether you’re riding the flatwater near Skyway Bridge, pushing progression in St. Pete, or practicing in the consistent windlines around Orlando and the Florida Gulf Coast, this blog gives you the full technique breakdown.

Inside, Aaron McClearnon walks you through gear setup, body mechanics, kite position, and the most common mistakes riders make when trying to go blind. We include real-world coaching tips, step-by-step progressions, and instructor insights from both Aaron and Ryan “Rygo” Goloversic. You’ll also learn why a full 180° pop is non-negotiable, how to use peripheral vision to hold kite control, and what drills help you land the trick safely and consistently.

New to blind riding? You’ll learn why going finless, using loose straps, and shifting your harness can give you the edge when you're just starting out. Plus, we include tips for dialing in the right speed, wind angle, and stance to build real confidence in your sessions.

If you're serious about landing blind, this is the how-to you need. Bookmark it, share it, and when you're ready to level up fast—book a kiteboarding lesson with our Elite team right here in Florida.

What does riding blind mean in kiteboarding?

In kiteboarding, riding blind means you're riding with your back to the kite. After popping into the blind position, you continue moving forward while facing away from the kite and holding the bar with one hand. It’s a visually disorienting position, and staying balanced takes coordination, edge control, and momentum. Aaron describes it as awkward but rewarding—an advanced-feeling trick that’s surprisingly accessible once you understand the mechanics.

The key to blind riding is committing to a full 180° board rotation. You’re not easing into it or sliding sideways—you’re going all in, switching your stance and direction mid-ride. Your back foot becomes your front foot, and your kite stays steady around 11 o’clock. The moment you land, you're riding with the kite behind you, which means you need to rely on peripheral vision and feel instead of line-of-sight control.

This position changes everything. Your balance shifts. Your front leg needs to be extended, your back leg bent, and your upper body opens slightly to the breeze. Since you can’t see the kite directly, you’ll need to develop a sense of its pull and maintain steady bar pressure with one hand. It’s not comfortable at first, and you won’t ride it far right away—but each session adds confidence and control.

What makes blind riding so satisfying is that it doesn’t just look stylish—it forces you to engage fully with your board, your kite, and your body awareness. It’s a skill progression marker. You’re no longer just riding; you’re flowing. And once you get that balance point—even for a second—you’ll feel the click. That’s when it becomes addicting.

Is riding blind hard to learn for beginners?

Riding blind isn’t impossible for beginners—but it’s definitely awkward at first. Aaron compares it to riding toe-side: you’re changing your stance, shifting your weight, and trying to stay balanced in an unfamiliar position. That alone can feel weird, especially when you're only using one hand to control the kite. The trick isn’t about strength—it’s about commitment and technique.

The first challenge is learning the body mechanics. You have to rotate a full 180°, which means popping the board and landing with your back to the kite. Your old back leg becomes your new front leg, and you need to exaggerate that stance: extend the front leg, bend the back one. That helps stabilize your center of gravity as your vision shifts and your sense of direction changes.

Beginners often try to ease into it with a simple board slide—but that doesn’t work. You can’t half-send a blind ride. Aaron’s clear on this: you have to commit to the rotation. “We do have to kind of release the board and do full send 180 degrees on the board… We can’t like teeter-totter board slide into that 180. We just gotta go for it.” That moment of full commitment is where the trick starts to stick.

The learning curve comes with repetition. Each session adds a little more confidence. Aaron reminds students not to overthink the edge or upwind angle in the beginning—just land the trick flat and ride it out. You’ll refine the edge control later. For beginners, success starts with comfort in the discomfort, and the willingness to keep sending it—even if it means a few wipeouts along the way.

Pro tip: “It’s definitely one of the hardest tricks for me to teach as an instructor. You just have to commit—there’s no slow way into it. Go full send, land it flat, and build from there. Don’t worry about style or riding it out long. Just get that rotation and ride for a second. That’s the win. Everything else—edge control, upwind, power tweaks—comes after.” - Aaron McClearnon 

“Aaron is dead on here. This reflects my mantra for instruction—it’s not about perfection. It’s about working into things. You might only ride for a few inches before you have to come out—and that’s ok. The body learns over time. One pro tip: go finless. Twist in and out of the position. You’ll train your body not to catch an edge, and the lack of fins makes it way more forgiving.” - Ryan “Rygo” Goloversic 

What gear setup is best for learning to ride blind?

Learning to ride blind doesn’t require a specialized setup, but a few gear choices can make it way easier to commit and progress. Aaron emphasizes the importance of riding with a kite that’s powered up, not underpowered. You want it near the upper end of its wind range—enough pull that you’re not hunting for power on the bar mid-transition. That lets you focus on the trick, not survival.

Kite position is critical. Aaron recommends keeping the kite around 11 o’clock—not too high, not too low. You want steady lift but not vertical pull. Since you’ll be riding one-handed the moment you pop into blind, your grip should be dead center on the bar, and you’ll need to hold consistent tension through the entire move. A good habit is to practice this stationary first: hold the bar center, stand in the blind stance, and feel that weight shift before ever committing on the water.

Board-wise, Aaron doesn’t mention fins directly—but you can tell from the crashes that catching an edge is a major issue. Control and forgiveness matter more than speed. If your board is too locked in or your stance too stiff, the trick becomes punishing. Similarly, Aaron offers a subtle but smart tip: shift your harness slightly toward your front hip (your new lead side). That repositioning helps the kite pull your body into better alignment once you’re in blind.

The right gear setup doesn’t do the trick for you—but it makes it way more forgiving to learn. Keep your kite powered, bar centered, and setup tuned for feel, not friction. That’s what lets you train repetition without getting punished every time something goes sideways.

Pro tip: “The good news is most of you will be learning this with foot straps. I learned to ride blind in wake boots—catching an edge in those has real consequences. In straps, it’s just chill. Yeah, you’ll pop out and fall, but it’s kind of fun and not a big deal. Like I mentioned earlier, riding finless will save you a lot of falls, and I also recommend using loose straps so your feet can bail clean. Some boards are easier than others—more rocker spins easier, flatter big-air shapes hold speed better. Aaron nailed it with the speed tip: this move is tough if you're going slow. But if you're not ready to go full blind yet, spend a few weeks just riding toeside both directions. It's the same body mechanics without the complexity of twisting around your centerline.” - Rygo 

What’s the correct kite position for riding blind?

Getting the kite position right is non-negotiable when learning to ride blind. Aaron drills this in early: you want the kite around 11 o’clock—not too high, not too low. Too high, and you’ll lose forward pull. Too low, and you’ll get yanked or lose lift mid-transition. The sweet spot is steady, powered, and predictable.

Why 11? Because blind riding isn’t about jumping—it’s about holding position. As soon as you pop into blind, you’re one-handed, which means your bar control needs to be stable and centered. Having the kite at 11 gives you the right balance of tension and lift to keep moving without over-correcting. Aaron has students focus on this before they even move: just stand still, one hand on the center of the bar, and simulate the blind stance.

In the early stages, kite drift is the biggest issue. Riders tend to look up, lose orientation, and accidentally steer the kite. That’s why Aaron emphasizes using peripheral vision instead of staring at the kite. You can’t see it directly in blind, but you can feel it—and training that awareness is a big part of landing the trick clean.

Kite position isn't just a technical detail—it’s the backbone of the whole trick. Get the kite right, and everything else gets easier. Get it wrong, and even a perfect stance or rotation won’t save you.

Pro Tip: Place your hand on the top of the bar, opposite where you'd normally grip. That gives you way more leverage when you're one-handed. From there, lean your front hip into the centerline. It helps you stay connected to the kite’s pull without oversteering or drifting off balance. It’s a small adjustment, but it makes blind riding feel way more intuitive.

How do you shift your weight and stance when going blind?

Riding blind forces you to completely reset your stance—your old back leg becomes your new front leg, and your body has to rotate across your centerline. Aaron breaks this down simply: extend your new front leg, and exaggerate the bend in your new back leg. That change helps you stay low and stable, while giving your body the flexibility to absorb the awkwardness of the position.

If you’ve ridden toeside before, you’re ahead of the game. Blind riding shares a lot of that same lower-body feel—only now you're twisted around and relying more on balance than visual feedback. Aaron tells students to treat blind like a mirror flip of regular riding, just with a deeper stance and more core control.

Head position is another critical detail. You can’t look at the kite directly, so Aaron advises riders to stop trying. Instead, keep your head facing the direction you’re moving, and use peripheral vision to track kite position. Looking up at the kite mid-transition tends to kill the rotation or throw off your balance.

As with all stance changes in kiteboarding, comfort comes from reps. The key is not to fight the weirdness—lean into it, let your body adjust, and build trust in the new posture. The goal isn't to hold blind forever—it's to get in, stabilize, and ride it out long enough for your body to start building memory.

What’s the safest way to practice the riding blind transition?

The safest way to start riding blind isn’t going full send—it’s breaking the move into pieces. Aaron starts students with a board slide drill: ride normally, shift slightly sideways, and then return to forward riding. It’s one-handed, just like blind, and it teaches two key things—kite control at 11 o’clock, and the slippery, off-balance feeling of rotating the board under your feet.

Once that feels manageable, the next step is to commit to a surface-level 180° rotation. Aaron recommends doing this at moderate speed—not too fast, not too slow. Speed helps with balance and momentum, but too much speed makes the crash harder when you miss the landing. His advice: go slow enough to stay in control, but fast enough that the kite pulls you through the full motion.

Another safety tip is to avoid trying to ride it out too long on your early attempts. Land the blind position, feel it for a second, then revert. Don’t force the ride—just hit the position, regain control, and reset. That’s how your body learns safely without forming bad habits.

If you’re nervous about catching an edge or crashing hard, loosen your stance and ride in more forgiving conditions. Flat water and steady wind let you focus on technique instead of chaos. As Aaron says, you won’t land it clean every time—but breaking it down into safe, progressive steps will keep you upright and improving.

Why is a full 180° pop important in kiteboarding tricks?

In blind riding—and most freestyle tricks—a full 180° pop isn’t optional, it’s essential. Aaron makes this crystal clear: “We can't like teeter-totter board slide into that 180—we just gotta go for it.” Trying to ease into blind with a soft slide almost always results in catching an edge, losing balance, or stalling out mid-transition. The trick only works when you fully commit to the rotation.

That full 180° pop does two things: it clears your edge cleanly off the water, and it gives your body time to reorient mid-air (or mid-slide). Without it, your stance ends up twisted, your weight’s in the wrong place, and your kite control suffers. With it, the movement becomes fluid—your new front leg extends naturally, your new back leg absorbs the landing, and you’re already set to ride blind, not fight for it.

Aaron compares the motion to a backside 180 on a snowboard or skateboard. You’ve got to release the board, spin clean, and replant with intent. It’s not about airtime—it’s about technique. You can pop this from the surface and still get enough lift to reset your stance.

The takeaway: if you’re not committing to the full 180°, you’re not really practicing the trick. You’re stalling your progress. Go all in—even if you crash. That’s how you lock the movement into muscle memory and make blind riding repeatable.

What are common mistakes when learning to ride blind?

The most common mistake when learning to ride blind is trying to ease into it. Aaron sees it all the time—riders attempt a slow board slide or half-turn, hoping to cheat the transition. But without a full 180° pop, the board won’t rotate cleanly, and your stance collapses. You either stall out or catch an edge, and neither leads to progress.

Another mistake is focusing too much on edging before landing. Aaron calls this out: riders get caught up in trying to hold edge control while in blind, but it’s premature. First, land the trick flat. Then worry about upwind tracking and edge pressure. Trying to do it all at once usually causes your body to revert back into its normal stance.

Kite position drift is another silent killer. Looking up at the kite mid-rotation pulls your shoulders off-axis, interrupts the spin, and causes you to overcorrect. Instead, keep your head down the line of travel and use your peripheral vision to track the kite’s position. Trust your setup.

Lastly, going too slow or too fast can sabotage the attempt. Too slow and you’ll sink or stall. Too fast and everything happens too quickly to control. Aaron recommends experimenting—try slower speeds for control, then layer in more power once you’re confident. Each crash teaches you something, but these avoidable mistakes will save you reps.

How does speed and wind angle affect blind riding?

Speed and wind angle are two of the biggest variables in riding blind—and getting them wrong makes the trick exponentially harder. Aaron points out that too little speed causes the board to drag and stall. Without momentum, your rotation dies halfway, and you fall back into your old stance or wipe out. But too much speed? That makes the trick sketchy—everything happens too fast to control.

The ideal speed is moderate to fast, enough to keep glide and power without feeling out of control. Aaron even tells Evan to slow down intentionally during early attempts: less speed lets you focus on the movement and tweak your body position without getting yanked into a crash. Slower attempts might not look clean, but they build confidence and body memory.

Wind angle matters too. To ride blind effectively, you eventually need to work upwind, but not right away. In the early stages, Aaron says it’s totally fine to ride slightly downwind after the transition—it helps maintain flow and gives your body space to adjust. Once you’re landing consistently, you can start experimenting with holding the line and edging back upwind.

Bottom line: speed gives you glide, wind angle gives you direction, and both need to be tuned to your level. Don’t rush into full-speed blind rides. Build into it, find the sweet spot, and let the power work for you—not against you.

When should you book a kiteboarding lesson to master blind riding?

If you’re struggling to land blind consistently—or feel like you’re stuck making the same mistake over and over—it’s time to book a lesson. Aaron makes it clear: blind riding isn’t just a trick, it’s a full-body coordination challenge. A good coach can spot subtle stance issues, kite drift problems, or timing errors that would take you weeks to self-correct. It’s the fastest way to level up safely.

A lesson doesn’t just help you land the trick—it helps you understand why you're missing it. From kite angle to weight transfer, every detail matters, and real-time feedback makes a huge difference. Plus, once you’ve got the foundation dialed in, an instructor can help you evolve the trick into more advanced transitions or blind-to-jump variations.

We always recommend reviewing foundational content between sessions—check out our Kiteboarding Tips & Tricks blog for progression hacks, gear advice, and technique breakdowns.

Struggling to land your first blind ride? Book a lesson with an Eliet Watersports instructor and learn it faster—with feedback that actually sticks.

Ryan "Rygo" Goloversic